Bilum Meri
Tuesday, 1 July 2008
The bilum is an iconic symbol of Papua New Guinea. Wherever I go around the world, if I see someone with a bilum, I always go up and talk to them. “That’s a bilum? Where did you get it?” “Have you been to PNG?”, “Who gave it to you?” These are the questions I ask. I have made many friends and heard many stories thanks to the bilum.
The latest and most dynamic of my “bilum friends” is Florence Jaukae, known around her home town of Goroka in the Eastern Highlands Province of Papua New Guinea as bilum meri, bilum lady. Florence is the creator of the bilum dress – a dress that’s shaped using this unique weave.
I met up with her this morning at the Goroka bilum market, the largest one in PNG. Florence gave me a crash course on how to spot a good bilum. It starts with the twisting of the fibres of particular plant material, although these days wool is used more. But the string still has to be twisted to make it a good bilum.
My Aunty Nini, used to make bilums and many times she tried to encourage me to sit with her and twist the fibres into twine, put it in the dye and then weave the thin but sturdy string around a coconut leaf, one layer above the other until it became this strong, versatile string bag.
Much to her frustration, I could never sit still long enough to do it properly, but my big sister Nubili was much more patient and much better at it.
As I sat on the grass in Florence’s front garden in Gepahina village, watching her teach this skill to her two daughters, I felt like I had missed out on something really special. Making bilum is like therapy. The women and girls sit around and talk to the rhythms of twisting, weaving, pulling the string, twisting, weaving and pulling the string. Grandmothers, aunties, mothers and daughters have time to comfortably and naturally share stories, concerns, feelings, hopes and laughter.
The bilum empowers women. Florence employs 50 village women to make her range of bilum dresses and other garments. At the markets, women sell bilums to tourists. It’s a source of income when the coffee season is over.
Traditionally the bilum is a vessel to carry food, firewood and babies, but through Florence I learnt it’s about weave – the twisting, the layering, the binding. I think every PNG girl should, if they get the chance, have a go at learning this craft and tradition. Florence Jaukae only started learning to make bilum two years ago – that’s another story. Florence has shown me that it’s never too late. She is an inspiration.
Your Comments
Michael , July 2nd 2008
Life is messy. It’s easy to get lost and lose our way. Coming home is a great way to remember where we came from, who we are and the things that really matter. Enjoying your journey Tania.
Keith Chamberlain , July 7th 2008
Well done made me remember my times in PNG and the number of Bilums we brought back to UK.
When after a holiday and we returned to PNG we used to say when seeing the hills around Port Moresby it’s nice to be back home . I and all my familly are now back in UK ,in the cold
Maggie Posu , July 11th 2008
You’re a true PNGean. Keep up the good work.
sharon brissoni , July 22nd 2008
hi tania
have known of you for many years since you started in TV
i initiated the bilum wear trend back in 1997 and was exporting traditional bilum weave dresses to Europe, i am now re-establishing the project after 10 years – i have met florence on a few occasions and am amazed at how many PNG women are now empowering themeselves through bilum wear
lukim olgeta
monica komi , November 10th 2008
Exactly, a lot of illiterate and semi-literate women make ends meet through selling bilum. The marketing is ad hoc. The women practice individually except for a few in groups. Its a potential craft that needs proper development. A cooperative is one possible way. Any comments, refer to me.
Maggie Kewa , November 27th 2008
Good to see you promoting the beauty and the hand work of self-employed sector in PNG. Let others see the true colours.
Maienduo , February 13th 2009
Well done. Keep up the good work
Tiamarie Badem, April 30th 2009 , April 30th 2009
Hi Tania,
Nice to see that you are a true die hard of the bilum.
I think that when PNG women wear bilum dresses, they really do stand out in the public and it really shows the PNG identity.
Keep up the bilum idantity
Barry , July 2nd 2008
Nice writing Tania. Your ‘coming home’ piece was lovely. Photos were great too. Go Tania!