Tattoo Central at the Arts Festival
Friday, 25 July 2008

Tap! Tap! Tap! Tap! Tap! The sounds coming from the fale on Utulei Beach in Pago Pago drew in the crowds, plus the fact that the source of the sound was the work of master Samoan tattooist Suluape Ala’ivaa.
No buzzing from a tattoo machine here, just tap, tap, tap, tap, tap, tap on a piece of wood that’s attached to a comb of needles. From 8am to 5pm every day, Suluape and his son, who has been handed his father’s craft, have been demonstrating their art form here at the Festival of Pacific Arts. Marking bodies, applying the ink and tapping it into skin using this ancient method – just the way it was originally done in Polynesia.


I sat in that fale for over an hour, mesmerised by the rhythmic sound, the precision and the intense solemn vibe. The commitment is astounding. The Samoan men cover their entire torso – back, stomach, buttocks and their thighs, right down past their knees. It takes days, weeks sometimes.


The women’s design is lighter and takes less time – about four hours. That’s long enough I think.

When I was 13, I cheekily announced to my father that I was getting a tattoo. “Okay, sure.” he said, instantly knocking the wind out of my statement. I thought he would be outraged. Instead he followed with, “Just make sure it’s a traditional one.” It made me stop and think. My Finschhafen family was heavily influenced by the missionaries so I didn’t even know whether we had traditional tattoos. Typical teenager, I never followed it up and to this day my body has no tattoos.
Here at the festival, as I wander amongst the thousands of people attending, I see tattoos everywhere. A body with no tattoo seems to be the exception not the norm. The Maori, the Tahitians and the Samoans and those from Melanesia – the Solomon Islanders and Papua New Guineans; non-Pacific and Pacific, punters and performers, they’re all here displaying their stunning body art.





Your Comments

Sina , July 30th 2008
Tania, I just love all of your photos esp. the ones of the tattoos in the Samoan fale. I’m Samoan & Chinese and some of my cousins have traditional tattoos even the ladies. I wish I had the guts to get one but it’s ok. Thanks for sharing the photos and your stories. I just wished I was there too. I was raised in Pago Pago and my parents still live there. Post some more, and hope you’re enjoying your stay on our beautiful islands.

Bert Hall, St. George, Utah USA , July 31st 2008
I too loved this article. Hopefully soon, I will get up the courage to get a pe’a…I want one, just haven’t done it yet. I don’t have any at all…..but want something to show my heritage and culture…..great story and nice pics……
Fa’afetai Tania!

Morten J. Z. Denmark , October 27th 2008
Samoan Tattooing style is so much: Amazing + Uniqe + beautiful = PERFECT ART ! :-D

ruby hines , November 11th 2008
scary!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!

Dorecca Leota , November 14th 2008
Love these pictures from the 10th Festival of Pacific Arts..If you could be there in person, OMG! it was amazing..Wish this could be in another year but not 4 years its too long..lol..but love the pixx Tania..It makes me feel so good and proud to be a samoan!!…ChHhooHooo!!

PUKU NUI, KAIHU,WAIPU,TAI TOKERAU,AOTEAROA. , November 26th 2008
MAORI TA MOKO – KA MAU TE WEHI !!

Nathen Laita Leatutufu, Bangor Maine , January 10th 2009
i love your story and your pics.
I’m an afakasi, which means half Samoan and half white. I’m planning a trip to Amerika Samoa, an i can’t wait to get a tatau done in the old style.
Fa’a Samoa

Leonia , February 6th 2009
I want to get a Samoan tattoo but I don’t know anyone in Sydney that can do it! If someone see this and does Samoan tattoo please write a message on this site with your digits so I could contact you!
Thank you!

Harru Aumale , February 28th 2009
Hi Iam to an Samoan dont you just love the style of their beuatiful work of art…

tequila , March 19th 2009
samoan peoples out dea i love your work

Peter Constantino, July 7, 2009 , July 7th 2009
Beautiful works of traditional art. As a performing arts delegate from Guam in Amerika Samoa, it was great to see the different styles of tattoos. I have a couple of Micronesian designs and hope to get more eventually. Hope to see you all in 2016 for the 12th FestPac to be held in………..GUAM!!!!

Lina Autagavaia , August 6th 2009
This story’s a legend !
hahaha ets very expressing
jusd reading ths cause im doing an important essay but wrote my own if only mynes was as good as ths one !
my topic is on Samoan Traditional Tattooing !
but yeah im gona hand et in ! ets almost done jusd adding sum finishing touches ! :)
x

Matthew aka coconut84 , August 13th 2009
I also am half Samoan/Australian. Born and raised in Edmonton, Alberta, Canada my whole life, my family has always critisized me on not “getting cultured”. So the oppertunity has come for my wife and I to go to Wastern Samoa. Where I will get cultured via a traditional Samoan Tattoo. I wish for the Suluape family to perform this on me! I want my Matai aunt to come with me for input on the design, family related design. I am looking foward to this experience and hopefully learn and never forget about my Samoan heritage thru this tattoo journey.

lexus , August 19th 2009
talofa my peaple i think all ur tatts. r cool

kenye manuel , September 10th 2009
I don’t care if it hurts but just go with the flow.I only care about how pretty
it looks.

neesh , September 10th 2009
wow ! im from America, and im samoan these designs look great i might consider getting one ! My samoan side is very interesting .

MiiJKaukli , September 10th 2009
im an indian and i really want a tattoo but i can not afford to pay my fair to come to samoa and get one…i am very fascinated by your artwork and designs…..it is very interesting…..i love it! ! !

Tiara Thompson , December 6th 2009
Oh, I really love the mini tribal turtle in that hand. It’s simply amazing and has lots of details. I really want something like that. Where did you get it? Thanks. Fake tattoos

Melanie , December 9th 2009
I dnt care if it hurt,but just go with the flow. And also i want it to get done, so that i can show the world that I am a real samoan lady.(wild).





Michael , July 29th 2008
I think it’d be great to get a traditional tattoo across my bum. However I fear I’d have to drink a bottle of tequila first. What amazing, emotionally powerful, pieces of body art!